Lithium Hydroxide and its many uses. And why we need to use it.

I could sit here and preach to you about Lithium Hydroxide, but that would be foolish. Because you can read all about its uses in USP # 2,893,865. 

Plus there is more information in another USP file, filed by Kodak.The USP # 2,739,894.

Yet here is the problem in using the formulas in Kodak USP. They come close to and in ways; exceed in form, to mirror the Kalogen formula. Because 7 grams of Lithium Hydroxide is comparable to 15 to 18 grams of Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide. The Boric Acid and the Borax, are additions in the aid of reducing the grain size, and to enhance the fine grain properties of the developers. I recommend using Examples 1 and Example 8, if you decide to use any of the information in the Kodak file. Dilution will be the same as Rodinal or may be more in the beginning. Testing your results will tell you for sure. Also, I would increase the Sulfite content to 90 or 100 grams, in example 8, but do not increase the Boric Acid. Because once mix into the solution (all 400 mg), it will provide a good protection from deterioration. And keeping your tank covered and your storage bottles full, will help as well.

Kalogen, is a developer copied  and sold by Anderson in 1917, as stated in his 1939 book. But in truth, Kalogen was and is a public domain formula, which first appeared in BJP in 1899 to 1903 and appeared again in Wilson's Photographic Magazine Volume 38, 1912..., when Andersen was in High School, then College. Thou the amounts may vary, it is still basically the same formula.

Lithium Hydroxide was once used in the making of Rodinal. Yet they stop using it, due to its high cost. Because unlike Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide that is used in the making of Rodinal today; and in the recent past by AGFA (Which cost very little, when compared to the cost of Lithium Hydroxide). You will only use 8 grams of Lithium Hydroxide, vice 20 to 25 grams of the other two; per 250 to 500 ml of  formulated concentrated developer @ 100% strength. Or 750 to 1000 ml @ 60 to 50% strength.

Note: The percentages are base on 90 grams of Potassium Metabisulfite and 20 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI. With water to make up the overall volume.

Listed below are some of the formulas that I have tried, which gave me good results, and I chose to share them.

Example 1

Para-Aminophenol HCI................................................05.0 grams

Sodium Sulfite...............................................................90.0 grams

Hydroquinone...............................................................03.0 grams

Boric Acid....................................................................02.0 grams

Potassium Bromide.......................................................00.5 grams

Lithium Hydroxide........................................................00.5 grams

Example 2

Metol............................................................................02.0 grams

Sodium Sulfite...............................................................90.0 grams

Hydroquinone...............................................................04.5 grams

Boric Acid.....................................................................02.0 grams

Glycin...........................................................................07.0 grams

Potassium Bromide........................................................00.5 grams

Lithium Hydroxide.........................................................01.0 grams

These formulas are fine grain and give warm shades to your photos. They are 1000 ml each.

Example 1 is used undiluted or 1:2 @ 8 to 10 minutes. Depending on film.

Example 2 is used diluted 1:3 or 1:5 @ 10 to 14 minutes. Depending on film. To increase sharpness and detail, when using Example 2. Diluted it 1:7, using the same time, if you are developing @ 68 deg..

Notice: I have not used these formulas in a small tank. I am sorry that I failed to state that earlier. The example #2 was tested at a 1:7 with Arista EDU Ultra 400 ISO  4 X 5, and the results were real good.

Small tank users will need to conduct tests to find the best procedure for their film's development. And hopefully, share their information with us.

Lithium Hydroxide is not easy to obtain. You can not purchase Lithium Hydroxide at Home Depot or most photographic houses, because it is costly and if not sold, would tie up too much of the seller's revenue.

If you use  my source,  it cost approx. $23.00 for 30 grams., plus shipping. A link to that source is posted below and it has one of the most highest chemical grades, one can obtain.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lithium-I-hydroxide-monohydrate-99-5-Analytical-Reagent-ACS-30g-cor/281296232208?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D8427315144639483906%26pid%3D100085%26prg%3D20140211132617%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281296232208%26clkid%3D8427316730725041088&_qi=RTM1562569

Lithium Hydroxide, can be used in photographic formulas that are package as "single formula mixed formulas". You can mix them dry, and store them for later use, without the fear of the chemicals breaking down due to a dried Hydroxide in the mix. This can not be done with the Sodium or the Potassium Hydroxides. Only Sodium Hydroxide has proven that it can be package in a dried formula, but that is only after it has been blended with Borax. Packaging un-blended Sodium Hydroxide in dry formulas, the mixture will become toxic to the other chemicals in 72 hours or less. And in one week, the complete formula will have turned a brownish yellow.

Thank You

KennyE