Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Caffenol and 4-Aminophenol HCI.

Rodinal, (discovered in 1890) has been around much longer than Kodak's D-76 (discovered in 1921). And even thou its original maker is no longer in the business of producing it. It is still being produce by other companies, as well as by the DIY photo buffs.

Schearing, invented 4-Aminophenol HCI, and commissioned his long time friend Dr. Momme Andresen to help him find other uses for it, besides using it to make cloth dyes for the English Garment Industries of the late 1800's.

4-Aminophenol HCI, is one of the best film developing agents to use in high temperature development. Because it will remain stable at high temp., as shown in its use in dying cloth at elevated temperatures.  

Rodinal, is a good film developer. Thousands of people will not use any other developer. And I agree with them, if you were not going to do enlargments pass 8X10. But when you are going to do larger enlargements. Sometimes, Rodinal is not the developer to use. Because 80% of the time, Rodinal will start to show its grainy side. Only 20% of those persons that I know, who have used Rodinal for making large enlagements have shown success. Not good odds at all. 

So what do you do. 

Well, there is always Pyro, PMK, or even homemade DK-50. But what do you do if you only have 4-Aminophenol HCI and no other developing agent; and worse yet..., low on funds.

Use your favorite formula of "Caffenol" and add 0.5 to 1.0 grams of 4-Aminophenol HCI per liter, and see a new world of blacks, whites, and shades of grey.

I am updating this post, because persons want to know what brand of coffee that I use; when I make my favorite Caffenol. Well, I use Maxwell House Coffee. I not only use it in my Caffenol..., I drink it as well.  So why purchase two types of coffee, when one can serve both uses..

First, I add 3 qts of water in a crock pot, then I add one half cup of coffee, and boil it for 6-10 minutes. I then let it cool down to around 100 degrees, and then I filter it in to a deep ceramic bowl, using a clean old white tea-shirt. I will then bottle that..., into a Snapple glass bottle until I am ready to use it.

As you can see, I do not use any metal pots or metal materials when I make my Caffenol. 

KennyE Caffenol: 120 film

16 oz of coffee
5 teaspoons of washing soda
1.0 g. of 4-Aminophenol HCI

Develop for 12-15 minutes, agitate every 30 seconds. 
Thank You

KennyE

Sunday, November 23, 2014

Using Chlorohydroquinone in Photographic Formulas.

Chlorohydroquinone, (Mono-Chloro Hydroquinone) is a sub halogen of Hydroquinone. It was discovered and invented by Julius Hauff and Luppe Cramer, in 1898. And made available commercially in 1899.

Hauff and Cramer called their new invention "Adurol". Yet, there is also a similar photo developer known as Mono-Bromide Hydroquinone, which was discovered and invented by Schering. It too, goes by the name of "Adurol".

In the BJP of 1914, Lumiere and Seyewetz publish their findings that Mono-Bromide-Hydroquinone, was even more energetic than Mono-Chloride Hydroquinone. Yet in my numerous searches,  I could not fine any sources that sold Mono-Bromide-Hydroquinone ("Adurol"), here in the United States.

I have often spoken with many photo hobbyist that have shown great interest in the use of "Adurol", but they have also stated that they were unable to find any primary support or good information on the Web that could assist them.

But Chlorohydroquinone (Mono-Chloro Hydroquinone) is a sub halogen of Hydroquinone, can now be purchased on "Ebay", by doing a search under "chlorohydroquinone".

In the past,  there were dozens of photo developers that once used Adurol. One of the most popular being Edwal FG7.

 I have been informed by  others, (thou I have not been able to check out the information through my research), that "Adurol" has been used in many popular photographic formulas in the past, yet never got mention in the formula write ups and reviews.

Yet it has taken me about 3 years, through on and off again studies and testing of the three formulas I am listing. They are very good developers, and should be given a chance to shine on their own merits.

As I stated before, I recommend that you have some skills and experince in the art of photographic chemistry, before you attempt to make and use these formulas. And also, that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and film developers; and that you employ all chemical handling and safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you accept all liabilities.


 Developer # 1


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
4-Aminophenol HCI 
4.0
g
Potassium Metabisulfite
90.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone 
5.0
g
Borax
          4.0
g
Glycin
        11.0
g



Cold water to make
1000
ml


 Developer # 2


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Phenidone
.3
g
Sodium Sulfite
100.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone  
5.0
g
Borax
          4.0
g
Glycin
       11.0
g



Cold water to make
1000



 Developer # 3


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Pyrocatechol  
5.0
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone  
4.0
g
Borax
          4.0
g
Glycin 
          7.0
g



Cold water to make
1000
ml



Mix all three formulas in the order given. In the third formula, the Glycin must be added after the Borax, for easier mixing, to allow the Glycin to dissolve properly.

The following formula was given to me as that of FG7. I have not tried it yet. Because I was not a fan of that developer. George Dellish (the person who gave me a copy of it), stated that he got it from a fellow photo club member around 1960 or 61, who had worked at Edwal Labs.



 Edwal FG7 Clone


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Metol
2.5
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
PPD HCI
4.0
g
Chlorohydroquinone
          4.0
g
Borax
         2.0
g
Glycin
3.0
g
Cold water to make
1000
ml


I will one day try this formula. I have not at this time done so. I myself, do use some very good Sodium Sulfite product, that I get from a swinning pool supply store. It is very very pure, @ 98% pure "Food Grade". So check out your local pool supplier, because this formula requires a very good Sodium Sulfite.

I would replace the Borax with 1 to 1.5 or 2 grams of Sodium Metaborate. Dilute it 1.5 oz. to 16 oz of water, starting at 12 minutes, using a fresh harden fixer. And experiment from there, until I get what I wanted.


Good Luck and Thank U


KennyE




Friday, November 7, 2014

Harold Leroy Harvey 777 (1899-1971)

Very few people know of this man. And even others could care less. Yet for those of us, in the photo world. We long to truly know him. To try to look into his thoughts and capture the beautiful images that he once saw or dreamed of, with visions of Godliness.

Born on July 7th, 1899, in Baltimore, Maryland, Harold grew up with the dream of being a great artist/painter. He set  out to complete that dream and he did become that "great" painter.

But what Harold failed to see or to understand fully, was that he and his great works of art and photo chemistry discoveries, would not become famous, valuable, or prized; until long after his passing.

Harold's works of art, sold for less than $80.00 dollars during his life time, yet they sold for hundreds of dollars, when his estate first went up for sale. But at today's auctions, his paintings are being sold for thousands of dollars, under the "Unknown /Non famous Artist" auctions. Some of his paintings to date, have sold for $5000.00 dollars or more.

Harold got into photography as a mere side line, to earn funds to make ends meet, when his paintings were not selling well. Children photos, was always a means to grab a few easy dollars during his earlier days as a painter/artist.

After leaving military service in WW1, New York's Broadway, offered a much better means of earning larger sums of money.  So Harold entered into the world of photographing celebrities. And built up a good size practice.

Yet by the late 1920's, Harold Harvey was seeing many of his customers leave for greener pastures in California, as they sought a motion picture career in the early days of Hollywood. Yet Harold Harvey got real lucky, and landed a contract with Chesterfield Tobacco; as a illustrator/photographer in their ads department.

But I am not truly interested in that portion of Harold Leroy Harvey's life. I am more interested into what got him interested in photo chemistry. I would have enjoyed talking to him, one on one. But that is a mute subject in its self, at this time; since he died 43 years ago. Yet the persons that inspired Harvey towards photo chemistry were Harold D. Russell, Arthur W.M. Dickins, and inventors Charles J. Thatcher of the USA, and Frank Clement Starnes of the UK.

Harold wanted his photos to pop, for he was not getting the results he wanted with the items already on the market. So looking for ways to improve his work, plus working in the heat during the New York City summers, he went seeking some assistance and found some local help from Charles J. Thatcher.

Charles J. Thatcher was well known in and around New York City's (Hollywood) film studios and the Broadway circuit, before most of the old East Coast Studios packed up and moved to California, where they could do filming year round. Thatcher's system of film development was far superior to that of Ansco and Kodak's; in outputting outstanding developed movie film. But like it is in any business, money talks and B.S. walks. And with Ansco and Kodak being willing to invest large sums of money  into many of the up and coming film studios, they got the go ahead O.K., in the front rooms and the darkrooms of many of the film studios. Because in the early 1900's, the major users of 35 mm film and the chemicals used to develop them, were the film studios. Most amateurs photographers, were using 616 roll film or 620/120 roll film in 6 x 6 or 6 x 9,  and sheet film. Harold wanted to use the new 35 mm cameras that were then on the market, because he could take more photos with it. 22 or 24 shots, than the normal 12, or 9 photo shots.

According to history, Harvey stated that it took him 8 to 10 months to design his formula for 777 and two years of testing. Harold Harvey had various other friends and associates, that assisted him in his development of the now well known 777 developers. In fact, when Harvey sold his 777 formula to Defender, he continued to create similar formulas for film development, that he shared with friends and fellow professionals. And thou they were not called 777, these developers were very similar in their function.

Harvey would buy back the rights to use the 777 trademark from DuPont in the early 1950's. DuPont sold the rights because they did not truly push the sell of DuPont 777. And the sells of 777, were very low, compared to some of DuPont's other photo products. For nearly 12 years, DuPont had lost money on Defender/DuPont 777. This came about because, Photograph Studios would purchase only a few cases of 777, and would not buy another supply for two or three years. When their business and sells were good, studios would stock up on 777, in the form of several cases. Which would serve them for years. Even DuPont's sells to hobbyist that used 777, were also very low. Because it would last for a long time before requiring replacement.

Harold Leroy Harvey, open his new business, "Harvey Photochemicals Inc"., in Newton, New Jersey; in the 1950's. But just like DuPont, sells were slow and low. Why, you might ask. Because it was just that good. It lasted too long, and kept getting better and better, the more it was used. Not something that Kodak or Ansco wanted for their products. So, the turn around on Harvey 777, was a very slow one.

Harold L. Harvey past away January 1971. His estate went up for sale the following year.

In my search on the life of Harold L. Harvey, I have discovered many aspics of his character. But it was and is all second hand information. Many of Harold's friends (like himself) are dead, or too old to remember much of the information that I am looking for. Even my trip to Newton, New Jersey produced little,  since most the people that worked for him are also dead or have moved away. I even talked to old timers that remembered Harold and his dear photographer friend "Weegee", of the Naked City fame.

Harvey would go on to develop many different film developing formulas, those before and those after he sold his 777 formula to Defender. And they are all out there, with as many different titles and names as one could imagine. I have four of those formulas, of which three are on my blog. The problem is that Harold (during his time in New York City) would stop at one of his favorite "hot dog" or eating spots in New York, and would write down one of his formulas on any form of paper. And hand it over to a friend or associate. And that would be the end of that.

The posted Fourth formula that I obtained as being one of Harvey's..., this one does not follow the same lines as those posted earlier. I tested this formula and the results were surprisingly very good. I have seen many formulas of this type. But I am posting it for anyone who desires to give it a try.

As I stated before, I recommend that you have some skills in the art of photographic chemistry, before you attempt to make and use this formula. And also, that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and film developers. And that you employ all chemical handling and safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you accept all liabilities.

Part A
Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
4-Aminophenol HCI
2.5
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
Hydroquinone
4.0
g
Sodium Metaborate
          4.0
g

         






       


Part B
Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
250.0
ml
Potassium Carbonate 
7.0
g







          


         








This will make one liter of working solution. You can use it over and over again, without dilution. This formula is for immediate use. You can mix this formula up dry and store it using containers that you fill to the brim, if you want to store the powders mixed together in two parts. To make a gallon of the solution, times 4 all materials. Do not increase the 4-Aminophenol Base, pass 2.5 grams per liter, it will be a waste of a good agent.

You can mix this up at home to make approx. a 1.2 gallon solution, yet you must make it up at a liter at a time. Place the dry chemicals in a large container, add the water using a tightly closed lid, and shake it for a half minute. Pour that into another container, and mix up the next batch. Once you have made four batches of Part A and Part B , combine the batches to form Part A, 3000 ml batch and Part B, 1 liter batch. When mixing Part A to obtain 3000 ml, use pure hot water and mix Part B to 1 liter, also using pure hot water, then combine the two. Do not use tap water, unless boiled and filtered; and allow it to cool below 80 degrees before use. Use without dilution.

I knew that sooner or later, my posted formulas, would be referred to as "concoctions". They are not concoctions. Panthermic 777, is a registered "trademark", it is not a registered invention; because the method used to make it, had already been patented prior to its development. There was no new or improved method in its development. Only DuPont, would go on to improve the formula, plus its method of manufacture, and discover (unlike Johnsons and Sons) it had reached its final development;  as far as investment is concerned. DuPont would later patent the process, which is the blending of plug-in  additional chemicals, that make Panthermic 777 special.

Remember..., Chlorohydroquinone, nor does Hydroquinone enjoy cold baths. So how much do you use or do not use? Because Panthermic 773 will give you a different look, than Panthermic 779. And they are all still out there. Still chillin and waiting to be found.

You are not going to find Harvey's formulas in publish books or even in archives. You are only going to find them if you go to a yard sale, estate sale, or free style picking. Harvey's notes, writings, and company archives, could now be in someone's barn, abandon warehouse, basement, home, or garage,  and no one really knows what they are, or even if they are of any value. They could just be sitting there, waiting for someone to pick them up.

So, if you are out yard sale/garage sale shopping/hunting, take a minute to look through the loose papers and books that is there. You might just find something.

I would like to thank Donald Cardwell, for his assistance, in providing me with additional
material, to put all the information that I have on file together. I have so much information, that it gets lost, and one only need to have a small reminder of one fact, to complete the work. And Donald gave me that reminder, plus the posted article. And I rushed to my papers, files, notes, and articles, and put this together.








Thank You



KennyE

Thursday, November 6, 2014

The Question: What is Photo Grade Chemicals.

#1 Son, an associate of mind, was told by persons that they would only use chemicals in their formulas that had a higher ranking than "Technical Grade". Which is one of the USA government's standard grades, for chemical grading.

So let us focus on only two of these so called grades. The first one is "Technical Grade",  with the second being "Photo Grade". "Photo Grade" is not a USA Government chemical grade at all..., but an Industrial Specification Rating.

The first one, we know a great deal about it. It is "Technical Grade": and it is a  US Government standard grade. But "Photo Grade", does not exist. It is not a US Government approved chemical grading, it is an Industrial Specified Standard. In fact, it is a ANSI standard, set up by the American National Standard Institute so that product manufactures can protect their products, their business, and maintain consumers confidence in the products in which they purchase and use, will meet or exceed the purpose that they were intended to perform.

All of ANSI Standards, are voluntary in nature. Manufactures do not have to use them, unless that ANSI Standard, has been adopted by the United States Government in governing the manufacture and operation of their product.

ANSI Standards..., are standards that the manufacture of that product must meet or exceed in order to qualify for ANSI approval. Such as the "Good House Keeping Seal".

You will discover, that the "Photo Grade" rating, could have a chemical purity range from 77 to 98%; with the lowest purity bulk chemicals being sold only to companies, and not to the general public.

 Listed below is the definition for Photo Grade.


Photo Grade:

Photo Grade chemical is one that contains only the impurities that do not interfere with the intended use of the chemical in the photographic processing.


Most products made in the USA, often exceeds ANSI Standards, and on average..., they run from poor to excellent.

One of the highest chemical grades that the general public can obtain,  is a Food Graded chemical. They run normally 97 to 99% in purity; if they are slated for human consumption. Yet the word "consumption" is very tricky in its use, because it is used even for products that are not slated for consumption internally. Basically just having physical contact with human skin is good enough. Such as products like hair dye, body oils, and such.

I use a 60/40 purity mix of chemical graded chemicals in my formulas. I use swimming pool chemicals, which are 100% Food Graded products that are used in the upkeep of ones swimming pool. I use chemicals used in the making of wine and beer products, or home canning. I use baking soda, which I cook into sodium carbonate. The rest of my chemicals are Technical Grade.

Most chemicals that you will likely come across will be  Food Graded chemicals. Which is one of the highest US grading. It is even higher than Lab Grade chemicals. Many companies purchase thousands of pounds of bulk Food Graded chemicals, and then later..., sell off their left over supplies to reclaim revenue shares. You will discover that many of the chemicals that you come in contact with are food or technical grade chemicals. Which far exceeds the "photo grade" labeling or ANSI standard.

You, the photographer, will be very hard press to obtain chemicals who's purity level is less than 89%. Which by the way..., is very good for any photo chemical work. Your biggest problem with photo chemical work, will be the purity of your water.  In hope of it having fewer metal solids, ceramic metals, and glass.

Most US manufactures, perform additional filtering of all their bulk chemicals in order to reach the level of purity required for their finish product that they are producing. You will not be able to purchase many chemicals with a purity level less than 89% in bulk form, without a government license, because of DEA rules and EPA laws . Any chemical sold to the general public (persons without license or permits) must be 100 pound loads or less, and filtered to a purity level of at lease 89% or greater.

Example: If you need to feed your three lot area lawn, and you require 800 pounds of Scott lawn feed. You must buy 16, 50 lbs bags, because 800 pounds of bulk lawn feed can not be sold to the general public, it is a special order and requires permits, or may not be available unless you are a farmer with permits. Also, such large orders of that nature, will draw the attention of the DEA and ATF. Cement is also an item that you must buy in 100 lbs bags or less. Bulk cement is a special order and you must have a permit and show a means of storing such large bulk of cement.

If you obtain a chemical that is less than 89% pure. It was or is being sold illegally to the general public and you should pass on that purchase, unless you have a permit/license, plus a means of filtering the chemical to a higher purity level. Because those chemicals will contain a high metal content and other impurities.

The CDC and the FDA has set levels, standards, and laws to protect the general public, and our water and food supplies from accidental or intentional dumping of chemicals into our environment.  By limiting the size amounts of chemicals being sold to the general public..., to smaller percentages. This action enables them to monitor the illegal chemical dumping performed by companies and private persons, that fail to properly dispose of their chemical products.

So do a little research, and hone up on your chemicals purity studies. Your understanding of it will make you feel much more safe and informed.

Thank U


KennyE


Tuesday, July 22, 2014

The Nerd and Geek Haven

Crazy, Weird, Stupid, Looser,  and the list goes on..., and on. Then there are those labels that I should not put in this blog.

I know them all. Because I was called each and everyone of them. Because I was and I will always be. That NERD.

I still remember Kay Smith. She was not the most prettiest girl in school. But she was real good looking, and I wanted her. But Ben Hemmond, the high schools archery champion, wanted her too. And she wanted his sweater.

She pass me up for a sweater! Oh yes, and a car. A 1956 Rambler American, two tone, black over baby blue.

I was a true sucker for Kay. I did all of her homework, helped her with school projects, and even washed her dog. And her dad gave me the opportunity to repair one of the first color televisions. I was a hit around Nerdsville after that.

Even at our local college, I was there for her. I would take her out when she could not get another date. Took her to McDonald's when ever she called. I even used my MIT (Michigan Institute of Technology) project funds, to take her to New York City, for the Rolling Stones first US concert tour. Then just before graduation. She married this guy in uniform. Heartbreak time. I thought I had a chance. A small one, but a chance. But what hurt the most, was receiving my degree, with only my Mom, my Dad, and my Sister attending.

I remained a true Nerd, for the next 8 years. Then one day, when I was getting off from work. I got robbed in the company's parking lot.

OK I thought; take my money, take my car even. Those items I could replace. But when he decided to take my life. For some strange unknown reason, I got mad. Killer mad.

I swung my heavy 1968 briefcase as hard as I could. And I continue to hit him and hit him with my briefcase. Not with the flat side. But with the corners. I nearly killed him. He was a bloody mess, laying outside my car.

Then the company's security people showed up. Not because I was getting robbed. But because I was beating the holy hell out this guy. They wanted to stop me, because by then, I was kicking him with my black hard leather wing tip Concords.

When it was all over, and I could go home. I sat down in my kitchen, and I ask myself why did I do it. And the answer was clear. I was mad as hell, and I was not going to take it any more. As well as having the fear of God looking me in the face.

The robber represented every cool guy in prep school, middle school, high school, and college that I had the misfortune of dealing with. And from that day forward. My life changed.

Kay showed up in my life later on, transporting her four children from the guy in uniform, and now divorced. I had became the division manager in the companies research department. I was now making a decent sum of money. So after visiting my mother, I dropped by her Dads home, where she was staying. I went there because I had to know why she married Mr. Uniform and not waited for me.

She told me that she went to college to find a husband.

We were sitting in a Burger King..., Kay, her youngest child, and I, having a meal, with the Star Wars Movie showing at the theater across the street.  Kay tried her old charms on me. By requesting that we attend the movie together.

I sat there looking at her, thinking about my college graduation. I really do not know why women think and believe, that they can leave a good caring man, totally high and dry, holding his penis in his hands. Only to return years later, after being blown up in 360 degrees in every direction of their bodies; several times by other guys or the same guy. With the thought that they may not be as spanking brand new as before, But that they are still an A1 used car purchase.

I could not believe that she was willing to pass on her's and Mr. Uniform's problems and responsibilities on to me, if I allowed it.

But that event in the parking lot, had changed me and gave me a fresh new outlook, of who and what I am. And what I could become. So I just stood up and walked away; and went on to a much more fuller and less stressful life.

As a "Weird Kid (that is what they called us), I knew and experience the pain that others today are feeling, including the loneliness of sitting at home watching the other kids play outdoors. Wanting to go out side, but fearing a confrontation. Plus every school day, hating to get on the school bus, to endure a 30 minute bus ride, with the worse kids possible. Or riding your bike down the street, while those stupid (cool) kids threw rocks at you. With them not realizing that if they hit you with one of those rocks, it could kill you. And you start asking yourself. Is that what they want to do? Kill me! 

Or even when you attended high school, wondering and searching for the answers to what makes a cool kid, a cool kid; and what makes you "weird". I know that the answer does not exist. Yet you could not tell me that in the 1950's, or early 1960's.

Well, it brains my friend. Brains. With the ability and the willingness to use them. To understand  and to organize your thoughts, emotions, and ideas, plus to be able to look at a person with Autism and know that you may be looking at a possible genius. To sense that the first correct answer, is only the beginning to all the other correct answers, waiting to be unearthed. The ability to obtain decent employment that pays $70,000.00 a year in the 1970's, and $183,000.00 by the 1990's, and well over $190,000.00 a year, in the early 2000's; until one's retirement.

I often visit my old neighborhood, to spend time with my weird/nerd friends, that are now caring for their parents. Because they know that if they place them in nursing homes, their chances of dying, is a sure thing.

I also, ran into the much older, one time considered to be the (cool kids), struggling to make ends meet, and bitching about nearly everything. Yet half of them, do not even vote during elections.

I even ran into one former cool kid, who is still living his high school days. High School! Everything he speaks of deals with high school,  and how cool it was.

Yea, right.

For whom?

He is still working at a labor job, and is the same age as I am.

Sad.

So there it is my Weird and Nerdy Bros. Lets talk, lets communicate. My email is listed below.

photobean777@gmail.com

Thank You


KennyE


The Inventive Nature of All of YOU

Over the years, I have belonged  to many photographic forums. And at everyone of them. I have met wonderful people.

But I have also met people I wish that I had not met.You know the ones. The one that wants you to conform to his or their way of thinking

Sometimes, you come up against that person, who has this belief that he knows all the information on all the subjects or enough to make him the regent expert.

Then there are the ones that states that he is a chemist, a chemical engineer, a photo engineer. An engineer's, engineer. And you should take his words as law.

Well, in a world of big bombs, mortars, mines,  friendly fire, and suicide bombers. "Who Cares"?

Actually, I do.

I care about those persons that follow my blog. I want to know and I need to know what your thoughts and ideas are; when it comes to photography.

Photography is not just a bunch of formulas made from metol and hydroquinone. Nor is it a bottle of Rodinal. We can not sit and just be satisfied that we have PyroCat HD or something whipped up out of coffee. And we all know that D-76 is not the  latest or the greatest developer out there. It is just the easiest to obtain. Because most of the others, are no longer made. Which does not make it great.

There are many development agents out there, that you may have thought about using or doing something different with. Pyro, Para-Aminophenol HCI, Glycin, Amindol, Chlorohydroquinone, PPD, and a host of others.

Do not sit around thinking that you do not have the knowledge or the training. Because nearly every great invention from the 19th to the 21st century have been created in someone's kitchen, garage, or basement. While they were tinkering with an idea, that others thought, was a dumb idea.

I truly would like to hear from all of you. I will not laugh, nor make fun of you or tell jokes about you. Because I know that somewhere out there, one of you, is that great inventor.

Edison, Ford, Westinghouse, even DuPont, did not have a wealth of education, chemistry or other engineering backgrounds. They merely had the desire to go forward with their dreams and ideas. Edison failed hundreds to thousands of times in his searches, as did Bell. The AK-47, of Russia, was design by a tank mechanic, and it is now one the most use weapons systems in the World. Yet from their small steps, others went on to improve and develop their ideas and dreams. And we now have cellphones that can do nearly everything except give you, your first born.

Do not be afraid to fail. Because the Universe, that we all live in, does not give up its secrets easily,  regardless of its size or importance.

I will not tell you that your idea was already tried or invented. Hell..., I will say, let's do it again. Because inventing something and discovering the Universe's secrets, regardless of its magnitude. Is like sex. You get better at it, the more you do it.

So lets do it again. Just maybe, they or we miss something.

Please, submit your comments, your ideas. Because I do not have a lock on all the intelligence in this Universe or this Planet. God gave me lots of company. He gave me, YOU. And You. Email me even. There is no law against doing that. In fact, I would enjoy hearing from all of YOU.

photobean777@gmail.com

Thank You


KennyE

Monday, July 14, 2014

Lithium Hydroxide and its many uses. And why we need to use it.



I could sit here and preach to you about Lithium Hydroxide, but that would be foolish. Because you can read all about its uses in USP # 2,893,865. 

Plus there is more information in another USP file, filed by Kodak.The USP # 2,739,894.

Yet here is the problem in using the formulas in Kodak USP. They come close to and in ways; exceed in form, to mirror the Kalogen formula. Because 7 grams of Lithium Hydroxide is comparable to 15 to 18 grams of Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide. The Boric Acid and the Borax, are additions in the aid of reducing the grain size, and to enhance the fine grain properties of the developers. I recommend using Examples 1 and Example 8, if you decide to use any of the information in the Kodak file. Dilution will be the same as Rodinal or may be more in the beginning. Testing your results will tell you for sure. Also, I would increase the Sulfite content to 90 or 100 grams, in example 8, but do not increase the Boric Acid. Because once mix into the solution (all 400 mg), it will provide a good protection from deterioration. And keeping your tank covered and your storage bottles full, will help as well.

Kalogen, is a developer copied  and sold by Anderson in 1917, as stated in his 1939 book. But in truth, Kalogen was and is a public domain formula, which first appeared in BJP in 1899 to 1903 and appeared again in Wilson's Photographic Magazine Volume 38, 1912..., when Andersen was in High School, then College. Thou the amounts may vary, it is still basically the same formula.

Lithium Hydroxide was once used in the making of Rodinal. Yet they stop using it, due to its high cost. Because unlike Potassium Hydroxide and Sodium Hydroxide that is used in the making of Rodinal today; and in the recent past by AGFA (Which cost very little, when compared to the cost of Lithium Hydroxide). You will only use 8 grams of Lithium Hydroxide, vice 20 to 25 grams of the other two; per 250 to 500 ml of  formulated concentrated developer @ 100% strength. Or 750 to 1000 ml @ 60 to 50% strength.

Note: The percentages are base on 90 grams of Potassium Metabisulfite and 20 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI. With water to make up the overall volume.

Listed below are some of the formulas that I have tried, which gave me good results, and I chose to share them.





Example 1

Para-Aminophenol HCI................................................05.0 grams
Sodium Sulfite...............................................................90.0 grams
Hydroquinone...............................................................03.0 grams
Boric Acid....................................................................02.0 grams
Potassium Bromide.......................................................00.5 grams
Lithium Hydroxide........................................................00.5 grams

Example 2

Metol............................................................................02.0 grams
Sodium Sulfite...............................................................90.0 grams
Hydroquinone...............................................................04.5 grams
Boric Acid.....................................................................02.0 grams
Glycin...........................................................................07.0 grams
Potassium Bromide........................................................00.5 grams
Lithium Hydroxide.........................................................01.0 grams

These formulas are fine grain and give warm shades to your photos. They are 1000 ml each.

Example 1 is used undiluted or 1:2 @ 8 to 10 minutes. Depending on film.

Example 2 is used diluted 1:3 or 1:5 @ 10 to 14 minutes. Depending on film. To increase sharpness and detail, when using Example 2. Diluted it 1:7, using the same time, if you are developing @ 68 deg..

Notice: I have not used these formulas in a small tank. I am sorry that I failed to state that earlier. The example #2 was tested at a 1:7 with Arista EDU Ultra 400 ISO  4 X 5, and the results were real good.

Small tank users will need to conduct tests to find the best procedure for their film's development. And hopefully, share their information with us.

Lithium Hydroxide is not easy to obtain. You can not purchase Lithium Hydroxide at Home Depot or most photographic houses, because it is costly and if not sold, would tie up too much of the seller's revenue.

If you use  my source,  it cost approx. $23.00 for 30 grams., plus shipping. A link to that source is posted below and it has one of the most highest chemical grades, one can obtain.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lithium-I-hydroxide-monohydrate-99-5-Analytical-Reagent-ACS-30g-cor/281296232208?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D8427315144639483906%26pid%3D100085%26prg%3D20140211132617%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281296232208%26clkid%3D8427316730725041088&_qi=RTM1562569

Lithium Hydroxide, can be used in photographic formulas that are package as "single formula mixed formulas". You can mix them dry, and store them for later use, without the fear of the chemicals breaking down due to a dried Hydroxide in the mix. This can not be done with the Sodium or the Potassium Hydroxides. Only Sodium Hydroxide has proven that it can be package in a dried formula, but that is only after it has been blended with Borax. Packaging un-blended Sodium Hydroxide in dry formulas, the mixture will become toxic to the other chemicals in 72 hours or less. And in one week, the complete formula will have turned a brownish yellow.



Thank You



KennyE