Saturday, September 14, 2013

Meritol: How to safely and correctly make it at home.





One of the most informed persons on Meritol today, is Ian Grant.

Thou his method of obtaining a Meritol formula developer is not totally correct; because it is merely the mixing of PPD and Pyrocat types of developing agents together, which is similar to mixing a MQ or a PQ developing formula. It will give you a fine grain developer, but it will be limited in what you can exactly do with it.

Meritol in itself, is a totally different developer in  its own rite. It is made using the "ternary addition compound" process, which was first pioneered in 1924 by Philips Petroleum, and the process has been copied by hundreds in the years that followed, including Johnson and Sons. Today, there are many different ways to do it and all of them will give you good..., to excellent results.

Your results will depend largely on the purity of your chemicals. And I can only say that if you intend to make Meritol. Photographer Formulary, Artcraft Chemicals, and Tech Chem...,and  marketed chemicals, that are food grade or better should be used. But rest assured, that you can also obtain pure grade chemicals that can be used in Black and White Photography, from other sources.

Making  Meritol is very easy for those persons that are skilled in the chemicals arts. For those that are not, I advise that you seek assistance from someone who is.

If you decide to make Meritol at home, you do so at your own risk, plus you are accepting all liabilities. And you should be 18 years old or older.

We will be using the method for making Meritol as laid out by Frank Clements Starnes, the inventor of Meritol, who worked for Johnson and Sons form 1921 to 1953. Mr. Starnes invention is GBP # 466,625

You will need a microwave oven, one thick ceramic 16 oz coffee cup, a glass funnel, and medical cotton balls for filtering..., plastic wrap, tape, the listed chemicals, safety glasses, kitchen oven gloves,  lab gloves, face respirator,  a plastic spoon, Mason jar, an eye dropper or pipette , and a 4 oz. bottle with cap, to keep your collection of mother liquor concentrate.

You will not be able to use the coffee cup again for consuming any beverages out of it, in the future.

And ensure that the work area is covered with plastic wrap to protect the surface work area from spillage and stains.

Heat 6 oz.of distilled water in the coffee cup, in your microwave, until it boils. Use the low heat setting on the microwave, to maintain control over the process. Remove the coffee cup from the microwave (once the water reaches boiling temperature), and put on your face respirator, eye protection, and lab gloves, then add the 5 grams of Phenylenediamine, Pyrocatechin, and Hydroquinone and stir. Once those chemicals are dissolved, add the 3 grams of Sodium Bisulfite, 4 grams of De-colorizing Carbon, and the 10 grams of Potassium Metabisulfite. Stir this mixture slowly for 1 minutes.

Now cover the coffee cup with plastic wrap and secure it with tape. Place it back into the microwave oven and heat it to a slow boil. As soon as it starts to boil and the plastic wrap steams up, wait 2 more seconds, and turn off the microwave oven. Using your kitchen oven gloves, remove the coffee cup from the microwave oven, remove the plastic wrap, and filter the solution hot..., using the glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls, into the Mason jar.

Use "Windex"  and plenty of water, to completely clean out your microwave, if you plan to use it for cooking food in the future.

Crystals will start forming and a mother liquor will start to separate from the crystals. Use your eye dropper to draw off as much of the mother liquor as possible, which will be a very high concentrated fluid and place it into the 4 oz. bottle. You will prepare it later to be used as a replenishment.

Cover the Mason jar with plastic wrap to prevent contamination and place it in the sun. On a good sunny day it will take 3 to 6 hours to dry out. You may need a few more days to dry out the crystal solution, depending on your location in the world and the amount of sun shine your location receives. When it is dried, you will have pure Meritol crystals..., developing agent only. Or..., you can do the following.

Instead of drying the crystals out, as was performed by Johnson and Sons. We will  place the wet crystals solution concentrate; in a suitable 2 liter mixing bottle/container, and add to it 100 grams of Sodium Sulfite, 5 grams of 4-Aminophenol HCI, and 500 mg of Balance Alkali, with 1 liter of boiled water..., cooled down to 150°F, and shake it for 45 seconds, then add 7 grams of Glycin.

The Glycin will mix and dissolve slowly, so simply shake or stir for 45 seconds, and then allow the remaining Glycin to dissolve on its own.

Add water to make a 1.5 gallon solution, for large tank use. You can use the solution once it is diluted to 1 gallon and cooled to 70°F.

For small tanks use; dilute the desired portion of the 1 gallon solution at a 1:3 ratio (example: take 5 oz of the 1.5 gallon solution and mix it with 15 oz of water; to give you 20 oz of working solution for small tank development) and develop for 8-12 minutes, @ temperature of 70°F. Always use a fresh hardening fixer bath with this developer.

The solution is good for 1 year, if used in a deep tank. Replenish using the Meritol mother liquor concentrate as stated below.

This is a very good ultra fine grain developer with good high lights, and it is good at high temps to 85°F. If desired, the 4-Aminophenol HCI, can be replaced with 5-7 grams of Pyro. Yet in using Pyro, it will not last long, due to the Balance Alkali, unless you reduce the Balance Alkali to 125 mg. For large tank use, it will last about 90  to 180 days.

Replenishment: Add 5 ml of the mother liquor concentrate to 250 ml of water, followed by 90 grams Sodium Sulfite, 2 grams of 4-Aminophenol HCI or 3 grams of Pyro, 250 milligrams of Balance Alkali when using 4-Aminophenol HCI, zero Balance Alkali when using Pyro,   and 1 gram of Glycin. Add distilled water to make 750 ml.

Make it and test it out on your own, to see if you like it, or you can use the Meritol crystal /developer agent with any of the formulas that you may find on Ian Grant's website, where it states use Phenylenediamine and Pyrocatechin, use the Meritol crystal solution.

 I have discovered that (Meritol) in its pure state, only requires about 5 grams of Meritol per liter;  or about 7.5 ml of the crystal liquid solution per liter.

The formula that I use is:

90 grams of Sodium Sulfite, "Meritol" 5 grams or 7.5 ml, Phenidone 0.3 grams,  1 grams of Borax, and 7 grams of Glycin, to 1000 ml of distilled water. Use diluted 1:7, develop 7-10 minutes at 70°F.

Remember to only add the Glycin to the solution, after you have added the Borax, and it (the Borax) has fully dissolved first.


Thank You


KennyE

Triple 5: Fine Grain Film Developer





Triple 5: Fine Grain Film Developer

Oh yea..., Triple 5, is alive!

CD2 color developer is a very good substitute for p-phenylenediamine type developing agents, in fact Crawley used it in his FX-10 formula. Yet Triple 5 uses only 70 grams of Sodium Sulfite, to avoid the issues of fog, that one could encounter when using  the FX-10 formula.. As well the Boric Acid is replaced with Sodium Hydroxide in the Sodium Metaborate, to provide a much better alkali. All the benefits of using Sodium Metaborate can be found in USP # 1,976,299 and 1,990,800, if one desires additional information

And what's so neat about this formula is that you can buy only the amount of chemicals that you need; 10 grams of each developing agent, and you do not need to keep large amounts of dangerous chemicals hanging around the house, especially if you have children or grand children around the home. And with just 10 grams of the various developing agents; there is enough to make 2 liters with just one purchase and shipping cost.

CD2, can be used as a fine grain black and white developer, and it gives outstanding results even when used by itself.  See USP # 2,304,953 and others for additional information. Also, CD2 is non-staining and less toxic to your skin than  p-phenylenediamine .

But  here..., with this formula; we will take it two steps further, because we will be using it with Metol and Glycin,  and eliminating the Hydroquinone that was used in the FX-10 formula,  to produce one “kick butt” developer. And you can purchase all of your items at one location, “Photographer Formulary”.

Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Metol
5.0
g
Sodium Sulfite (anhy)
70.0
g
CD2 color developer
5.0
g
Sodium Metaborate
2.0
g
Glycin
5.0
g
Cold water to make
1000
ml

Mixing: Boil 1000ml of water, and allow it to cool to 180°F, then add 1 gram of the 70 grams of Sodium Sulfite to 750ml of water, stir till dissolve and add in the 5 grams of Metol, followed by the remaining 69 grams of Sodium Sulfite. Stir the solution until the chemicals have dissolved and add the 5 grams of CD2, followed by the 2 grams of Sodium Metaborate. Stir the solution for 1 minute and add the 5 grams of Glycin.

Stir the solution until most of the Glycin is dissolved; then allow the solution to sit until all the Glycin has completely dissolved into the solution.The Glycin must be added after you have added the Sodium Metaborate, and not before, in order to get the Glycin to dissolve properly.

Add water to make a stock solution of 1000 ml.

Use diluted 1:1 and develop for 8-12 minutes @ 70°F. Or use it diluted 1:3 and develop for 15-18 minutes, as one shot developer or for better sharpness and detail..

Replenish with fresh developer, using the bleed method.

This developer must be allowed to ripen or season first, with a few rolls of film, then it is heaven sent. And it can be used over and over again in deep tank development for about 10 months, before a proper replenishment is required. The same is true, when used for small tank development, when mixed 1:1, and stored in a 1 liter bottle.

Just return the 1:1 working solution to its working stock solution storage bottle, to reuse it. Allow it to settle and filter it, using cotton balls as a filter, when required.

Example:

After mixing your Triple 5 stock solution. Obtain a 1 liter storage bottle and fill it with 500 ml of distilled water. Then add 500 ml of your Triple 5 stock solution, to the 500 ml of water in your 1 liter bottle, to give you a 1 liter bottle of Triple 5..., 1:1 working solution.

Remember to transfer the remaining Triple 5 stock solution to a  smaller 500 ml bottle. Add water to keep it filled to the top, to keep it from going bad.

Note: I have tested these formula and have obtained from good to excellent results. Yet I have not done exhaustive test with them because I do not have all the equipment or time, to try them out on every available film, camera, or photo paper.

This is where "you" the user come in. Make and try the formula out, and see what wonders you, yourself can create. Post your results or comments, whether good or bad; and become a Pioneer with me on a journey that does not end.


Thank you,


KennyE

Rod-Thermic: Fine Grain Film Developer








Hello...,  I am KennyE; and I would like to welcome you to my blog page on using the Rodinal type process to make a “Panthermic Developer”.

Defender/Harvey 777 is made using the "ternary effect", which was first patented by Philips Petroleum 1924. And it would be used by many different companies in the years that followed. And many would use it in many different methods.

Yet we will be using the standard method of mixing dry powders together in boiled or distilled water, to obtain this wonderful film developer.

 Like I have stated before, there are many different methods of producing 777 or formulas that work very close to it. And this is a smart and ingenious way of producing a good “Panthermic Developer” with the good qualities of  4-Aminophenol HCI, Hydroquinone, and a special P-Phenylenediamine type reducer, CD3, that is non staining and less toxic.

4-Aminophenol HCI, also known as Para-Aminophenol HCI, is one of the best developing agents to use at high temperatures. It is known not to fog most films. And..., if you use this developer at temperatures higher than 80 degs. Simply add some Sodium Sulfate, about 25 to 30 grams per liter.

The Hydroquinone will provide us with the contrast that is needed in our prints, and the fine grain is provide by the CD3 color developer. To obtain a better understanding of the abilities of CD3,  review USP # 2,193,015. A limited amount of information on CD3 can be found in Focal Press book; "Developers".

CD3 is sold at ArtCraft Chemicals and it comes in 100 grams units. All the other items can be purchase at Photographer Formulary or ArtCraft Chemicals

One of the most important things to keep in mind when making this developer, is some of the mechanics as to how it works.

Because Rodinal, is a fine grain and a high-definition developer in its self, and if used at very high dilution rates it can produce outstanding negatives; thou however, at times..., Rodinal will produce some grainy negatives. I believe this is due to the chemicals not being completely mixed uniformly. And when it is diluted, the needed amounts of sodium chloride is too low to do the job, due to the high dilution rates that is used; as well as the chemicals separating out from the solution, from time to time.

Note: At low dilution rates, grainy negatives is a given, when using Rodinal. And even more so with today's modern films.

Now enter CD3. It will assist in the fine grain development, by aiding for the absent of the much needed sodium chloride to produce the fine grain development desired, which is often lost in the high dilution rate; when using Rodinal only. And it will aid in restoring detail to the negative.

One could use the sum of 10 grams of CD3, but 5 grams would work nicely too. At a 10 gram concentration rate, that is over kill. You can get by with as little as 3.0 grams of CD3.

In this formula, we will use only 3 grams of CD3.

As I stated before, I recommend that you have some skills in the art of photographic chemistry, before you attempt to make and use this formula. And also, that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and film developers. And that you employ all chemical handling and safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you accept all liabilities.

KennyE 777 Rod-Thermic Developer


Metric
Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
300
ml
10
oz.
Para-Aminophenol
20.0
gm.
4
teaspoons
Hydroquinone
5.0
gm.
1
teaspoon
Potassium Metabisulfite    90.0 gm.
6
0
tablespoons plus
teaspoon
Sodium Hydroxide
20.0
gm.
4
 teaspoons
CD3 color developer
3.0
gm.
1
 teaspoons
Cold water to make
500
ml
32
oz.
Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: CD3 may cause skin irritation.

Note: If possibile always use a microwave oven and a glass container, to boil your water. Using metal pots and containers, can add metal traces to one's water.

Microwave one quart of distilled water to boiling point. Once it has cooled to (180 deg. F), add 1 gram of Potassium Metabisulfite to 150 ml of water in a 250 ml beaker. Stir until it is dissolved, then add the 20 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI and stir until most of it is dissolved. Now add to that mixture the remaining 89 grams of Potassium Metabisulfite, and stir for 30 seconds.

Now let us make the Sodium Hydroxide solution. This is a very safe way to do it, first obtain a wash pan of cold water. In another 250 ml beaker, add to it 100 ml of cold water and add the 20 grams of Sodium Hydroxide. Next place the beaker into the wash pan; you will have to hold on to the beaker so that it will not tip over in the wash pan, and stir the Sodium Hydroxide until it is mixed and clear. The cold water in the wash pan will cool the Sodium Hydroxide in the beaker.

Using a 1 gallon Motts apple juice bottle, pour the Para-Aminophenol HCI solution in first, followed by the Sodium Hydroxide solution.

The water used to rinse out the beakers..., pour that rinse water into the Motts bottle. Add  water to the solution to make 500 ml, and shake for 1 full minute.

There will be heavy black deposits in the solution. Please do not worry about these deposits.

Now add the 5 grams of Hydroquinone and the 3.0 grams of CD3 Color Developer. Shake the solution to mix it for 45 seconds.

Add water to make a 750 ml of concentrated stock solution. Allow the stock solution to settle for 1 or 2 days, then filter the solution using a glass or plastic funnel, with medical cotton balls.

Always dampen the medical cotton balls, before using them for filtering solutions.

To use: Shake or stir the stock solution, then dilute approx.100 ml stock solution to  3900 ml of water, to give you 4000 ml of working solution. This is your working solution for large format tank developing at a 1:40 ratio. Check development times against Rodinal and decrease or increase by 2-3 minutes as required by the film being used. As the solution ripens, adjust the development times as needed. Replenish with fresh developer. Use the bleed replenishment method.

To use: In small tanks..., take 1 part of the above working solution (which is already diluted to 1:40), to 20 parts of water for a 1:60 ratio or take 1 part of the above working solution to 40 parts of water for a 1:80 ratio. The average development time is 10-14 minutes and 16-28 minutes respectively. Use as a one-shot solution.

Small tank user can use this developer similar to large tank users, if you are using a Paterson tank, like I use. Fill the tank with the right amount of solution needed to develop two rolls of 35 mm film. Even if you are only developing one roll of film. To do this..., mix 50 ml of stock solution to 3,950 ml of distilled/boiled water. This will be your new working stock solution. When you  are done with developing the film, pour the used solution back into the remaining working stock solution container. Shake and wait until your next use. This is good for 3 to 4 months, if well sealed.

After the 3-4 months have past or you have developed 8 rolls of film,  pour out 1/4 to 1/2 of the working stock solution, then mix a fresh 25 ml stock solution to 1,375 ml of distilled/boiled water and add that to your old working solution. Mix or shake up the new combined working solution and you are good to go for another 8 rolls of film.

This solution will ripen and only get better and better. But as you develop more rolls, your development times will get longer. You can add 5 ml of stock solution, with 60 grams of Sodium Sulfite or Potassium/Sodium Metabisulfite , to 250 ml of distilled water; to add to your working solution to replenish it as well.

Remember this is a Rodinal type developer, but it has the fine grain abilities of PPD, and the contrast of DK-50.

For small tank repeat users and large tank users, your biggest problem will be sledge; so filter the solution as needed..., using medical cotton balls, or a good coffee filter.

Storage Note:

One can not store their Rod-Thermic Developer as a concentrate pass four or six months. Because the developer will start to break down, due to the presents of the Sodium Hydroxide. Therefore, if you decide to store or keep this developer in concentrate form for longer periods of time.You will have to make it into a "two part" formula. Part A, is the Rodinal,250 ml; and Part B, is the 5 grams of Hydroquinone and the 3.0 grams of CD3 Color Developer, mixed with 10 grams of Potassium Metabisulfite, in 250 ml of distilled water.

To use, mix the Rodinal Part A, @ 1:60 and then add 5 to 10 drops of Part B. Stir and allow the solution to settle for 10 minutes before use, at temperatures from 68 to 85 degrees. Other dilution levels can be used as well. I have tried 1:80, with good results. 


Note: I have tested these formula and have obtained from good to excellent results. Yet I have not done exhaustive test with them because I do not have all the equipment or time, to try them out on every available film, camera, or photo paper.

This is where "you" the user come in. Make and try the formula out, and see what wonders you, yourself can create. Post your results or comments, whether good or bad; and become a Pioneer with me on a journey that does not end.

As always, You may leave a comment below or email me at photobean777@gmail.com.

 
Thank You

 
KennyE
 

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

KennyE 777












Hello..., I am KennyE, and I would like to say that I have never used Defender/Harvey 777, until I made it myself. And I have discovered that it is one of best film developers by far.

In discovering the secrets of Defender/Harvey 777, it took me down roads of research that I would not of thought; was the right route to travel. But film developers are made from the chemicals used in color dyes, smokeless gunpowder, and a host of other fields. In fact, if you were to go to a Rite-Aid and purchase hair coloring, you would discover that it contains many of the chemicals used in black and white , plus color photography. It also includes chemicals used in color photography that is known as "couplers", which allows for the infusion of colors into the different layers of the film.

Defender/Harvey 777 is made using the "ternary effect", which was first patented by Philips Petroleum 1924. And it would be used by many different companies in the years that followed. And many would use it in many different methods.

Tracking down the formula for 777, was a combination of talking to many of the retired old timers in and around the Rochester, NY area, and the surviving relatives of those persons, that have past on. As well, by attending numerous yard and estate sales in and around the Rochester, NY area,  and reading many of the old Kodak Photographic Journals, which kept tabs on Defender, and going through E.I. DuPont records and archives, as well as searching down numerous leads at the USPTO.

I was at one time; thinking about selling a version of 777, under KennyE 777, but that would be foolish, since at my age, I would not live long enough to make any sizable money. Besides, digital photography is here to stay.

So now..., I am merely listing three 777 developer formulas on this blog page, it will be up to you to decide which one is best for your needs. I tried to make it as they once did it in the past, but I discovered that I needed some new equipment to bring it to that level of refinement. Therefore, since I only have a basic chemical lab at my home; I had to make it in the most…, simplest and easiest method that I could; and still get some acceptable results.

One of the formulas is my version of Defender 777, the one that was produced and sold, and the second formula, is my version of Harvey 777..., aka DuPont improvement of Defender's work on 777; with the third formula being..., one that I whipped up, using the information from former Defender/DuPont employees,  in an effort to get as close as possible to one the Defender 777 formulas purchased from Harvey..., by using the standard lab method of mixing dry powders into warm distilled water. Which by the way, is a real good developer.

Yet..., which ever formula that you chose to use. You will obtain some excellent results. Just remember that these developers must go through a ripening/seasoning process first. You will get some grain at first, but they will soon mellow out and you will enjoy the developer as you use it more and more. And as you use it, you will develop your own style in using that version of KennyE 777, to the best of its properties.

Like there are many different makes of automobiles, there are many different methods of producing 777 or formulas that work very close to it. I was surprise to discover how many people that had once worked in the photo industries, in and around the Rochester, NY area, had developed their own developers (both film and paper) on their own time, that were good..., if not better than the ones we all used once back in the day.

Many of those pioneers were forced to hold on to their discoveries; just waiting for the day that they would have enough funds to patent their own discoveries. Also many of these same people, learned that they could not market their inventions or discoveries..., because they worked for one of the big photo companies at the time, and that any or all discoveries that they themselves made, on or off the job; could be claimed by their employer.

I even have a "Panthermic" developer formula, made from using the "Rodinal" process; which I will be posting in a separate blog in the near future.

There were a lot of smart and ingenious people that worked for the big photo companies in and around Rochester, NY. Many of these fine people have past on and are now with God and other love ones.

Yet in my search, many of those pioneer's surviving relatives have provided me with outstanding information material, and as well..., I have also purchase some of that material information that I now hold. This occurred because many these surviving relatives have fallen on hard times, in and around the Rochester and Buffalo, NY areas..., plus, some people simply moved on. Where some of the belongings and property that was once held dear by the inventors's surviving family members,  are now being parted with (for a price).

But that is not the story here. The story here is that these people were ingenious, gifted, and had great talent. I could sit back and claim that this material and information that I have, was all mine. But that would be ruefulness. And these pioneer's work deserves a better fate; and their work should be shared, by all of us.

I recommend that you have some skills in the art of photographic chemistry, before you start to make and use the first two formulas. And that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and developing agents. And that you employ all chemical handling safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you must willingly accept all liabilities.


KennyE 777a Fine Grain Film Developer

Metric
Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
500
ml
10
oz.
Para-Aminophenol
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Hydroquinone
5.0
gm.
1
teaspoon
Phenidone
0.5
gm.
1
dash spoon
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
   120.0 gm.
7
1
tablespoons plus
teaspoon
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Pyrocatechin
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Sodium Carbonate
20.0
gm.
4
teaspoons
Cold water to make
1000
ml
32
oz.
Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine may cause skin irritation.
This is a variation of a formula that I was given as Defender 777. I worked on this formula for seven days to ensure that it worked. I replaced one of the reducers, (Metol) with Phenidone for those persons with allergies to it. Here is the process that I used to get close to that formula.

Microwave one quart of distilled water to boiling point. Once it has cooled to (180 deg. F), add 1 gram of Sodium Sulfite to 100 ml of water in a 250 ml beaker. Stir until it is dissolved, then add the 2 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI and stir until most of it is dissolved, followed by the 5 grams of  Hydroquinone and 0.5 grams of Phenidone. Now add to that mixture/solution 118 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 20 grams of Sodium Carbonate and stir for 45 seconds. 

Now sit that solution to the side. 

You will need a heat source, like an alcohol burner or a candle. Pour 100 ml water into another beaker. Add to it 7 grams of Phenylenediamin HCI, Pyrocatechin, and the last 5 grams of Para- Aminophenol HCI, with 1 gram of De-colorizing Carbon. Stir the solution for 20 seconds as it heats up to 200 degrees F.

Then add 2 grams of Sodium Bisulfite, 1.5 grams of Super Iron Out powder, and the last 1 gram, of the required 120 grams of Sodium Sulfite. Mix these powders up prior to starting. And add them slowly to the solution of heated reducers.  Heat the solution to 180-200 deg. F, and maintain that temp for 30-45 seconds, continuously stirring the solution.

Remove the solution from its heat source and filter the solution hot, with a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls into a 250 ml glass beaker. Allow it to cool in the beaker while sitting on a cool metal surface. When the crystals start to form, a mother liquor will start to separate from the forming crystals, as they settle to the bottom. Allow this to happen. Then use a pipette to draw off the mother liquor, leaving the crystals, and decant it into a 4 oz bottle. The crystals will form for 15 to 20 minutes. 

Bottle the concentrated mother liquor in a clear 4 oz. bottle. This mother liquor is concentrated and will be used in replenishing or topping off the working tank solutions.

Add the crystals with the left over remaining mother liquor (highly concentrated), to the first solution and stir the mixture for 1 minute. Then pour that solution into a 1 gallon Motts apple juice mixer/shaker bottle, with distilled water to make 500ml, and shake for 2 minutes.

Now pour the 500 ml of solution into a 500 ml clear bottle, cap and allow it to settle. This will take about 1 to 1.5 hours. At which time you will see more crystals and sludge settling at the bottom of the bottle. 

Now filter the solution into a suitable container, using a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Re-bottle into a clean clear 500ml glass bottle. The solution should be a light yellow in color…, yet crystal clear solution. Now allow it to settle again for 1 hour, to see if it requires additional filtering. It should not require any additional filtering. Now transfer that solution to a 1 liter glass bottle and add distilled water to make 1 liter. 
 
To use,  mix the 1000 ml base solution to 2756 ml of distilled water, to make 3786 ml of working solution, for use in large tanks

Replenishment is with the mother liquor, by taking 5 ml of mother liquor to 500 ml of distilled water, 30 grams of Sodium Sulfite , 1 grams of 4-Aminophenol, 2 grams of Hydroquinone, 0.2 grams of Phenidone, and 2 grams of Savogran TSP.

In my search for the Defender 777 formula, I discovered one of the reasons that it was not made public…, you can not easily make it at home. At lease not the average Amateur Photographer or those that are use to using pre-package chemicals with little or no chemistry skills themselves.

You can not make it into a powder, unless you have the knowledge, know how, and the equipment to do so safely. 

If you do not have a well equip lab at home, along with some years of experience in chemistry and its safety…, please do not try this formula. It was even difficult for me, and I have a well equip lab. But I have discovered that I lack some equipment, which I need to purchase in the future. One of them is a good “vacuum filter system”, plus a dryer, and some other items.

This is not the Defender 777 formula that I was given. And since I saw the difficulty in brewing it their way, I had to alter it, to a formula that I felt was usable by any amateur photographer with limited chemical art skills.

This is not wine making or home brewing, because with these chemicals, you can truly injure yourself, burn down your home, or have a number of other mishaps.
 
----------------"------------------------------------------------------------------------"----------------

KennyE 777b Fine Grain Film Developer

Metric
Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
500
ml
10
oz.
Para-Aminophenol
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Glycin
5.0
gm.
1
teaspoon
Phenidone
0.5
gm.
1
dash spoon
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
   90.0 gm.
6
0
tablespoons plus
teaspoon
Sodium Carbonate    20.0 gm.
4
teaspoons
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Pyrocatechin
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Cold water to make
1000
ml
32
oz.
Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine may cause skin irritation.

This is a variation of a formula that I was given as Harvey 777. I did not know that Harold Harvey changed his formula, once he obtain the rights to it from DuPont in the mid 1950's. I worked on this formula for seven days as well, to ensure that it worked. I replaced one of the reducers, (Metol), with Phenidone. Here is the process that I used to get close to that formula.

Microwave one quart of distilled water to its boiling point. Once it has cooled to (180 deg. F), add 1 gram of Sodium Sulfite to 250 ml of water. Stir until it is dissolved, then add the 2 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI and stir until most of it is dissolved, followed by 0.5 grams of Phenidone. Now add to that mixture/solution 88 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 20 grams of Sodium Carbonate, and stir for 45-60 seconds. Then add the 5 grams of Glycin. The Glycin (if you are using Photograph Formulary Glycin) will not dissolve right away, some will float and remain suspended on top of the solution and will dissolve slowly.

Now sit that solution to the side. This is solution 1.

You will need a heat source, like an alcohol burner or a candle. Pour 80 ml of distilled water into a flask. Add to it 7 grams of Phenylenediamine HCI and Pyrocatechin, and the 5 remaining grams of Para- Aminophenol HCI, with 1 gram of de-colorizing Carbon. Stir the solution for 20 seconds as it heats up towards boiling temperature @ 180 degrees F. Then add 2 grams of Sodium Bisulfite, 1.5 grams of Super Iron Out powder, and the last 1 gram, of the required 90 grams of Sodium Sulfite. Mix these powders up prior to starting.
And add them slowly to the solution of heated reducers, followed by an additional 20 ml of distilled water to the flask. Bring the solution in the  flask, to a temperature of 200 deg. F. Maintain that temperature for 45 seconds, while continuously stirring the solution, slowly.

Remove the solution from it's heat source and filter the solution hot, and with a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Allow it to cool in a 250 ml glass beaker on a cool metal surface.  When the crystals start to form, a mother liquor will start to separate from the forming crystals. Allow this to happen. Then use a pipette to draw off the liquor from the crystals, after allowing the crystals to form for 15 to 20 minutes. 

Bottle the concentrated mother liquor in a clear 4 oz. bottle. This mother liquor is concentrated and will be used to replenish or topping off the working tank solutions.

Add the crystals with the left over mother liquor (highly concentrated), to solution 1, and stir for 1 minute. Then pour that solution into a 1 gallon Motts apple juice mixer/shaker bottle, with distilled water to make 500 ml, and shake for 2 minutes.

Now pour the 500 ml of solution into a 500 ml clear bottle, cap and allow it to settle. This will take about 1 to 1.5 hours. At which time you will see crystals and sludge settling to the bottom of the bottle. Now filter the solution into a suitable container, using a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Re-bottle into a clean clear 500 ml glass bottle. The solution should be light yellow in color…, and crystal clear. Now allow it to settle again for 1 hour, to see if it requires additional filtering. It should not require any additional filtering.
 
Now transfer that solution to a 1 liter glass bottle and add distilled water to make 1 liter.

To use; mix the 1000 ml stock solution to 2785 ml of distilled water, to make 1 gallon working solution.

Replenish with the mother liquor, by taking 5 ml of mother liquor to 495 ml of distilled water, 60 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 5 grams of Savogran TSP. Add 500 ml of water to the solution, to make a 1 liter replenishment solution. 

Replenishing: This is a no waste..., developing solution. First, filter your working solution, and clean out your tank. Second, refill your tank with 3/4 of the filtered old working solution. The remaining, removed 1/4 portion of the old working solution, do not discard. Now add the replenishment solution and  additional water to your new working solution, to bring it to the desired level, and stir. 

With the remaining 1/4 portion of old filtered working solution. Add to it, 3 ml of mother liquor to the solution, plus 20 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 1 gram of Savogran TSP, (you could use Borax in place of the TSP) plus water to make 1 liter. Shake the solution for 30 seconds, allow it to settle for 1 day, filter it once more, and use it as a one shot for small tanks at a 1:2 diluted ratio at 8 to 15 minutes @ 70 deg. F.

In my search for the Harvey 777 formula, I discovered one of the reasons that it was not made public, is…, you can not easily whip it up at home. At lease not the average Amateur Photographer or those that are use to using pre-package chemicals, or those having little,  to no chemistry skills.

You can not make it into a dry powder, unless you have the knowledge, the know how, and the equipment to do it safely. 

If you do not have a well equip lab at home, along with some years of experience in chemistry, understanding and respect of and for chemical safety…, please do not try this formula. It was even difficult for me, and I have a well equip lab. But I have also discovered that I lack some needed equipment, which I need to purchase in the future. One of them is a good “vacuum filter system”,  along with a dryer, and some other items.

This is not the Harvey 777 formula that I was given. And since I saw the difficulty in brewing it their way, I had to alter it, to a formula and method, that I felt an amateur at home could produce. 

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The following formula is a easy to make and use..., "Panthermic Developer"

This is a safe and easy developer. It uses P-phenylenediamine and Pyro, so check the chemical safety notices on those chemicals.


KennyE 777: Easy Film Developer Formula 


Metric

Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
750
ml
32
oz.
Citric Acid
5.0
gm.
2
teaspoons
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
120.0
gm.
6
0
tablespoons plus 
teaspoon
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Sodium Phosphate Tribasic
2.0
   g

1
½  teaspoon
Pyro
7.0
gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Glycin
7.0
Gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Cold water to make
1000
ml

32
oz.

Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine and Pyro may cause skin irritation and stains.

First mix the Phenylenediamine with the 90 grams of Sodium Sulfite, 5 grams of Citric Acid, and 2 grams of Sodium Phosphate Tribasic in 250 ml of warm distilled water. In another container..., mix the Pyro and Glycin, with 30 grams of Sodium Sulfite in 500 ml of warm water. You will have a big looking mess after you mix the Pyro and Glycin together, but do not filter it.

Combine the two solutions in a 1 gallon Motts Apple Juice bottle, then add water to make 1 liter, and shake for 1 minutes.

Even still, you will have a messy looking solution. It will take about 5 to 10 minutes for all of the Glycin and Pyro to combine into a usable solution. Once that is done. Shake the solution for 15 seconds and you are done. Do not filter. Allow the solution to sit for 2 days in dim light or darkness before use.

Then re-bottle in a 1 liter suitable container.

Do not “filter” this solution. The sediment adds to the strength of the solution.

You can use it over and over again, for about 18 months. Replenish using fresh developer.

Use: Dilute the 1000 ml  stock solution with water to make 4000 ml, giving you a 1:3 ratio. Starting temperature is 70°F, can be used @ temperatures of 80°F. This will make a 4000 ml of working solution for small deep tanks use, a little more than a gallon of working solution. Do not “filter” this solution. It can also be used for small tank use at a 1:3 dilution ratio.

If you have any questions, you can email me at photobean777@gmail.com or leave a comment.

Thank You


KennyE