Tuesday, September 10, 2013

KennyE 777












Hello..., I am KennyE, and I would like to say that I have never used Defender/Harvey 777, until I made it myself. And I have discovered that it is one of best film developers by far.

In discovering the secrets of Defender/Harvey 777, it took me down roads of research that I would not of thought; was the right route to travel. But film developers are made from the chemicals used in color dyes, smokeless gunpowder, and a host of other fields. In fact, if you were to go to a Rite-Aid and purchase hair coloring, you would discover that it contains many of the chemicals used in black and white , plus color photography. It also includes chemicals used in color photography that is known as "couplers", which allows for the infusion of colors into the different layers of the film.

Defender/Harvey 777 is made using the "ternary effect", which was first patented by Philips Petroleum 1924. And it would be used by many different companies in the years that followed. And many would use it in many different methods.

Tracking down the formula for 777, was a combination of talking to many of the retired old timers in and around the Rochester, NY area, and the surviving relatives of those persons, that have past on. As well, by attending numerous yard and estate sales in and around the Rochester, NY area,  and reading many of the old Kodak Photographic Journals, which kept tabs on Defender, and going through E.I. DuPont records and archives, as well as searching down numerous leads at the USPTO.

I was at one time; thinking about selling a version of 777, under KennyE 777, but that would be foolish, since at my age, I would not live long enough to make any sizable money. Besides, digital photography is here to stay.

So now..., I am merely listing three 777 developer formulas on this blog page, it will be up to you to decide which one is best for your needs. I tried to make it as they once did it in the past, but I discovered that I needed some new equipment to bring it to that level of refinement. Therefore, since I only have a basic chemical lab at my home; I had to make it in the most…, simplest and easiest method that I could; and still get some acceptable results.

One of the formulas is my version of Defender 777, the one that was produced and sold, and the second formula, is my version of Harvey 777..., aka DuPont improvement of Defender's work on 777; with the third formula being..., one that I whipped up, using the information from former Defender/DuPont employees,  in an effort to get as close as possible to one the Defender 777 formulas purchased from Harvey..., by using the standard lab method of mixing dry powders into warm distilled water. Which by the way, is a real good developer.

Yet..., which ever formula that you chose to use. You will obtain some excellent results. Just remember that these developers must go through a ripening/seasoning process first. You will get some grain at first, but they will soon mellow out and you will enjoy the developer as you use it more and more. And as you use it, you will develop your own style in using that version of KennyE 777, to the best of its properties.

Like there are many different makes of automobiles, there are many different methods of producing 777 or formulas that work very close to it. I was surprise to discover how many people that had once worked in the photo industries, in and around the Rochester, NY area, had developed their own developers (both film and paper) on their own time, that were good..., if not better than the ones we all used once back in the day.

Many of those pioneers were forced to hold on to their discoveries; just waiting for the day that they would have enough funds to patent their own discoveries. Also many of these same people, learned that they could not market their inventions or discoveries..., because they worked for one of the big photo companies at the time, and that any or all discoveries that they themselves made, on or off the job; could be claimed by their employer.

I even have a "Panthermic" developer formula, made from using the "Rodinal" process; which I will be posting in a separate blog in the near future.

There were a lot of smart and ingenious people that worked for the big photo companies in and around Rochester, NY. Many of these fine people have past on and are now with God and other love ones.

Yet in my search, many of those pioneer's surviving relatives have provided me with outstanding information material, and as well..., I have also purchase some of that material information that I now hold. This occurred because many these surviving relatives have fallen on hard times, in and around the Rochester and Buffalo, NY areas..., plus, some people simply moved on. Where some of the belongings and property that was once held dear by the inventors's surviving family members,  are now being parted with (for a price).

But that is not the story here. The story here is that these people were ingenious, gifted, and had great talent. I could sit back and claim that this material and information that I have, was all mine. But that would be ruefulness. And these pioneer's work deserves a better fate; and their work should be shared, by all of us.

I recommend that you have some skills in the art of photographic chemistry, before you start to make and use the first two formulas. And that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and developing agents. And that you employ all chemical handling safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you must willingly accept all liabilities.


KennyE 777a Fine Grain Film Developer

Metric
Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
500
ml
10
oz.
Para-Aminophenol
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Hydroquinone
5.0
gm.
1
teaspoon
Phenidone
0.5
gm.
1
dash spoon
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
   120.0 gm.
7
1
tablespoons plus
teaspoon
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Pyrocatechin
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Sodium Carbonate
20.0
gm.
4
teaspoons
Cold water to make
1000
ml
32
oz.
Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine may cause skin irritation.
This is a variation of a formula that I was given as Defender 777. I worked on this formula for seven days to ensure that it worked. I replaced one of the reducers, (Metol) with Phenidone for those persons with allergies to it. Here is the process that I used to get close to that formula.

Microwave one quart of distilled water to boiling point. Once it has cooled to (180 deg. F), add 1 gram of Sodium Sulfite to 100 ml of water in a 250 ml beaker. Stir until it is dissolved, then add the 2 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI and stir until most of it is dissolved, followed by the 5 grams of  Hydroquinone and 0.5 grams of Phenidone. Now add to that mixture/solution 118 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 20 grams of Sodium Carbonate and stir for 45 seconds. 

Now sit that solution to the side. 

You will need a heat source, like an alcohol burner or a candle. Pour 100 ml water into another beaker. Add to it 7 grams of Phenylenediamin HCI, Pyrocatechin, and the last 5 grams of Para- Aminophenol HCI, with 1 gram of De-colorizing Carbon. Stir the solution for 20 seconds as it heats up to 200 degrees F.

Then add 2 grams of Sodium Bisulfite, 1.5 grams of Super Iron Out powder, and the last 1 gram, of the required 120 grams of Sodium Sulfite. Mix these powders up prior to starting. And add them slowly to the solution of heated reducers.  Heat the solution to 180-200 deg. F, and maintain that temp for 30-45 seconds, continuously stirring the solution.

Remove the solution from its heat source and filter the solution hot, with a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls into a 250 ml glass beaker. Allow it to cool in the beaker while sitting on a cool metal surface. When the crystals start to form, a mother liquor will start to separate from the forming crystals, as they settle to the bottom. Allow this to happen. Then use a pipette to draw off the mother liquor, leaving the crystals, and decant it into a 4 oz bottle. The crystals will form for 15 to 20 minutes. 

Bottle the concentrated mother liquor in a clear 4 oz. bottle. This mother liquor is concentrated and will be used in replenishing or topping off the working tank solutions.

Add the crystals with the left over remaining mother liquor (highly concentrated), to the first solution and stir the mixture for 1 minute. Then pour that solution into a 1 gallon Motts apple juice mixer/shaker bottle, with distilled water to make 500ml, and shake for 2 minutes.

Now pour the 500 ml of solution into a 500 ml clear bottle, cap and allow it to settle. This will take about 1 to 1.5 hours. At which time you will see more crystals and sludge settling at the bottom of the bottle. 

Now filter the solution into a suitable container, using a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Re-bottle into a clean clear 500ml glass bottle. The solution should be a light yellow in color…, yet crystal clear solution. Now allow it to settle again for 1 hour, to see if it requires additional filtering. It should not require any additional filtering. Now transfer that solution to a 1 liter glass bottle and add distilled water to make 1 liter. 
 
To use,  mix the 1000 ml base solution to 2756 ml of distilled water, to make 3786 ml of working solution, for use in large tanks

Replenishment is with the mother liquor, by taking 5 ml of mother liquor to 500 ml of distilled water, 30 grams of Sodium Sulfite , 1 grams of 4-Aminophenol, 2 grams of Hydroquinone, 0.2 grams of Phenidone, and 2 grams of Savogran TSP.

In my search for the Defender 777 formula, I discovered one of the reasons that it was not made public…, you can not easily make it at home. At lease not the average Amateur Photographer or those that are use to using pre-package chemicals with little or no chemistry skills themselves.

You can not make it into a powder, unless you have the knowledge, know how, and the equipment to do so safely. 

If you do not have a well equip lab at home, along with some years of experience in chemistry and its safety…, please do not try this formula. It was even difficult for me, and I have a well equip lab. But I have discovered that I lack some equipment, which I need to purchase in the future. One of them is a good “vacuum filter system”, plus a dryer, and some other items.

This is not the Defender 777 formula that I was given. And since I saw the difficulty in brewing it their way, I had to alter it, to a formula that I felt was usable by any amateur photographer with limited chemical art skills.

This is not wine making or home brewing, because with these chemicals, you can truly injure yourself, burn down your home, or have a number of other mishaps.
 
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KennyE 777b Fine Grain Film Developer

Metric
Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
500
ml
10
oz.
Para-Aminophenol
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Glycin
5.0
gm.
1
teaspoon
Phenidone
0.5
gm.
1
dash spoon
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
   90.0 gm.
6
0
tablespoons plus
teaspoon
Sodium Carbonate    20.0 gm.
4
teaspoons
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Pyrocatechin
7.0
gm.
1
½ tablespoon
Cold water to make
1000
ml
32
oz.
Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine may cause skin irritation.

This is a variation of a formula that I was given as Harvey 777. I did not know that Harold Harvey changed his formula, once he obtain the rights to it from DuPont in the mid 1950's. I worked on this formula for seven days as well, to ensure that it worked. I replaced one of the reducers, (Metol), with Phenidone. Here is the process that I used to get close to that formula.

Microwave one quart of distilled water to its boiling point. Once it has cooled to (180 deg. F), add 1 gram of Sodium Sulfite to 250 ml of water. Stir until it is dissolved, then add the 2 grams of Para-Aminophenol HCI and stir until most of it is dissolved, followed by 0.5 grams of Phenidone. Now add to that mixture/solution 88 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 20 grams of Sodium Carbonate, and stir for 45-60 seconds. Then add the 5 grams of Glycin. The Glycin (if you are using Photograph Formulary Glycin) will not dissolve right away, some will float and remain suspended on top of the solution and will dissolve slowly.

Now sit that solution to the side. This is solution 1.

You will need a heat source, like an alcohol burner or a candle. Pour 80 ml of distilled water into a flask. Add to it 7 grams of Phenylenediamine HCI and Pyrocatechin, and the 5 remaining grams of Para- Aminophenol HCI, with 1 gram of de-colorizing Carbon. Stir the solution for 20 seconds as it heats up towards boiling temperature @ 180 degrees F. Then add 2 grams of Sodium Bisulfite, 1.5 grams of Super Iron Out powder, and the last 1 gram, of the required 90 grams of Sodium Sulfite. Mix these powders up prior to starting.
And add them slowly to the solution of heated reducers, followed by an additional 20 ml of distilled water to the flask. Bring the solution in the  flask, to a temperature of 200 deg. F. Maintain that temperature for 45 seconds, while continuously stirring the solution, slowly.

Remove the solution from it's heat source and filter the solution hot, and with a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Allow it to cool in a 250 ml glass beaker on a cool metal surface.  When the crystals start to form, a mother liquor will start to separate from the forming crystals. Allow this to happen. Then use a pipette to draw off the liquor from the crystals, after allowing the crystals to form for 15 to 20 minutes. 

Bottle the concentrated mother liquor in a clear 4 oz. bottle. This mother liquor is concentrated and will be used to replenish or topping off the working tank solutions.

Add the crystals with the left over mother liquor (highly concentrated), to solution 1, and stir for 1 minute. Then pour that solution into a 1 gallon Motts apple juice mixer/shaker bottle, with distilled water to make 500 ml, and shake for 2 minutes.

Now pour the 500 ml of solution into a 500 ml clear bottle, cap and allow it to settle. This will take about 1 to 1.5 hours. At which time you will see crystals and sludge settling to the bottom of the bottle. Now filter the solution into a suitable container, using a glass funnel and damp medical cotton balls. Re-bottle into a clean clear 500 ml glass bottle. The solution should be light yellow in color…, and crystal clear. Now allow it to settle again for 1 hour, to see if it requires additional filtering. It should not require any additional filtering.
 
Now transfer that solution to a 1 liter glass bottle and add distilled water to make 1 liter.

To use; mix the 1000 ml stock solution to 2785 ml of distilled water, to make 1 gallon working solution.

Replenish with the mother liquor, by taking 5 ml of mother liquor to 495 ml of distilled water, 60 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 5 grams of Savogran TSP. Add 500 ml of water to the solution, to make a 1 liter replenishment solution. 

Replenishing: This is a no waste..., developing solution. First, filter your working solution, and clean out your tank. Second, refill your tank with 3/4 of the filtered old working solution. The remaining, removed 1/4 portion of the old working solution, do not discard. Now add the replenishment solution and  additional water to your new working solution, to bring it to the desired level, and stir. 

With the remaining 1/4 portion of old filtered working solution. Add to it, 3 ml of mother liquor to the solution, plus 20 grams of Sodium Sulfite and 1 gram of Savogran TSP, (you could use Borax in place of the TSP) plus water to make 1 liter. Shake the solution for 30 seconds, allow it to settle for 1 day, filter it once more, and use it as a one shot for small tanks at a 1:2 diluted ratio at 8 to 15 minutes @ 70 deg. F.

In my search for the Harvey 777 formula, I discovered one of the reasons that it was not made public, is…, you can not easily whip it up at home. At lease not the average Amateur Photographer or those that are use to using pre-package chemicals, or those having little,  to no chemistry skills.

You can not make it into a dry powder, unless you have the knowledge, the know how, and the equipment to do it safely. 

If you do not have a well equip lab at home, along with some years of experience in chemistry, understanding and respect of and for chemical safety…, please do not try this formula. It was even difficult for me, and I have a well equip lab. But I have also discovered that I lack some needed equipment, which I need to purchase in the future. One of them is a good “vacuum filter system”,  along with a dryer, and some other items.

This is not the Harvey 777 formula that I was given. And since I saw the difficulty in brewing it their way, I had to alter it, to a formula and method, that I felt an amateur at home could produce. 

---------------------"---------------------------------------------------------------"---------------------

The following formula is a easy to make and use..., "Panthermic Developer"

This is a safe and easy developer. It uses P-phenylenediamine and Pyro, so check the chemical safety notices on those chemicals.


KennyE 777: Easy Film Developer Formula 


Metric

Spoons and Ounces
Water (160 deg. F)
750
ml
32
oz.
Citric Acid
5.0
gm.
2
teaspoons
Sodium Sulfite,
anhydrous
120.0
gm.
6
0
tablespoons plus 
teaspoon
Phenylenediamine
7.0
gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Sodium Phosphate Tribasic
2.0
   g

1
½  teaspoon
Pyro
7.0
gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Glycin
7.0
Gm.

1
½ tablespoon
Cold water to make
1000
ml

32
oz.

Note: Do not mix the chemicals in the order given. Caution: Para-phenylenediamine and Pyro may cause skin irritation and stains.

First mix the Phenylenediamine with the 90 grams of Sodium Sulfite, 5 grams of Citric Acid, and 2 grams of Sodium Phosphate Tribasic in 250 ml of warm distilled water. In another container..., mix the Pyro and Glycin, with 30 grams of Sodium Sulfite in 500 ml of warm water. You will have a big looking mess after you mix the Pyro and Glycin together, but do not filter it.

Combine the two solutions in a 1 gallon Motts Apple Juice bottle, then add water to make 1 liter, and shake for 1 minutes.

Even still, you will have a messy looking solution. It will take about 5 to 10 minutes for all of the Glycin and Pyro to combine into a usable solution. Once that is done. Shake the solution for 15 seconds and you are done. Do not filter. Allow the solution to sit for 2 days in dim light or darkness before use.

Then re-bottle in a 1 liter suitable container.

Do not “filter” this solution. The sediment adds to the strength of the solution.

You can use it over and over again, for about 18 months. Replenish using fresh developer.

Use: Dilute the 1000 ml  stock solution with water to make 4000 ml, giving you a 1:3 ratio. Starting temperature is 70°F, can be used @ temperatures of 80°F. This will make a 4000 ml of working solution for small deep tanks use, a little more than a gallon of working solution. Do not “filter” this solution. It can also be used for small tank use at a 1:3 dilution ratio.

If you have any questions, you can email me at photobean777@gmail.com or leave a comment.

Thank You


KennyE
 

























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