Sunday, November 23, 2014

Using Chlorohydroquinone in Photographic Formulas.

Chlorohydroquinone, (Mono-Chloro Hydroquinone) is a sub halogen of Hydroquinone. It was discovered and invented by Julius Hauff and Luppe Cramer, in 1898. And made available commercially in 1899.

Hauff and Cramer called their new invention "Adurol". Yet, there is also a similar photo developer known as Mono-Bromide Hydroquinone, which was discovered and invented by Schering. It too, goes by the name of "Adurol".

In the BJP of 1914, Lumiere and Seyewetz publish their findings that Mono-Bromide-Hydroquinone, was even more energetic than Mono-Chloride Hydroquinone. Yet in my numerous searches,  I could not fine any sources that sold Mono-Bromide-Hydroquinone ("Adurol"), here in the United States.

I have often spoken with many photo hobbyist that have shown great interest in the use of "Adurol", but they have also stated that they were unable to find any primary support or good information on the Web that could assist them.

But Chlorohydroquinone (Mono-Chloro Hydroquinone) is a sub halogen of Hydroquinone, can now be purchased on "Ebay", by doing a search under "chlorohydroquinone".

In the past,  there were dozens of photo developers that once used Adurol. One of the most popular being Edwal FG7.

 I have been informed by  others, (thou I have not been able to check out the information through my research), that "Adurol" has been used in many popular photographic formulas in the past, yet never got mention in the formula write ups and reviews.

Yet it has taken me about 3 years, through on and off again studies and testing of the three formulas I am listing. They are very good developers, and should be given a chance to shine on their own merits.

As I stated before, I recommend that you have some skills and experince in the art of photographic chemistry, before you attempt to make and use these formulas. And also, that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and film developers; and that you employ all chemical handling and safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you accept all liabilities.


 Developer # 1


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
4-Aminophenol HCI 
4.0
g
Potassium Metabisulfite
90.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone 
3.0
g
Hydroquinone
          1.0
g
Borax
         4.0
g



Cold water to make
1000
ml


 Developer # 2


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Phenidone
.5
g
Sodium Sulfite
100.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone  
3.0
g
Hydroquinone
          1.0
g
Borax
         4.0
g



Cold water to make
1000



 Developer # 3


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
PPD    
5.0
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
Adurol/Chlorohyroquinone  
4.0
g
Borax
          4.0
g
Glycin 
          7.0
g



Cold water to make
1000
ml


Mix all three formulas in the order given. In the third formula, the Glycin must be added after the Borax, for easier mixing, to allow the Glycin to dissolve properly.

The following formula was given to me as that of FG7. I have not tried it yet. Because I was not a fan of that developer. George Dellish (the person who gave me a copy of it), stated that he got it from a fellow photo club member around 1960 or 61, who had worked at Edwal Labs.



 Edwal FG7 Clone


Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
Metol
2.5
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
PPD HCI
4.0
g
Chlorohydroquinone
          4.0
g
Borax
         2.0
g
Glycin
3.0
g
Cold water to make
1000
ml


I will one day try this formula. I have not at this time done so. I myself, do use some very good Sodium Sulfite product, that I get from a swinning pool supply store. It is very very pure, @ 98% pure "Food Grade". So check out your local pool supplier, because this formula requires a very good Sodium Sulfite.

I would replace the Borax with 1 to 1.5 or 2 grams of Sodium Metaborate. Dilute it 1.5 oz. to 16 oz of water, starting at 12 minutes, using a fresh harden fixer. And experiment from there, until I get what I wanted.


Good Luck and Thank U


KennyE




Friday, November 7, 2014

Harold Leroy Harvey 777 (1899-1971)

Very few people know of this man. And even others could care less. Yet for those of us, in the photo world. We long to truly know him. To try to look into his thoughts and capture the beautiful images that he once saw or dreamed of, with visions of Godliness.

Born on July 7th, 1899, in Baltimore, Maryland, Harold grew up with the dream of being a great artist/painter. He set  out to complete that dream and he did become that "great" painter.

But what Harold failed to see or to understand fully, was that he and his great works of art and photo chemistry discoveries, would not become famous, valuable, or prized; until long after his passing.

Harold's works of art, sold for less than $80.00 dollars during his life time, yet they sold for hundreds of dollars, when his estate first went up for sale. But at today's auctions, his paintings are being sold for thousands of dollars, under the "Unknown /Non famous Artist" auctions. Some of his paintings to date, have sold for $5000.00 dollars or more.

Harold got into photography as a mere side line, to earn funds to make ends meet, when his paintings were not selling well. Children photos, was always a means to grab a few easy dollars during his earlier days as a painter/artist.

After leaving military service in WW1, New York's Broadway, offered a much better means of earning larger sums of money.  So Harold entered into the world of photographing celebrities. And built up a good size practice.

Yet by the late 1920's, Harold Harvey was seeing many of his customers leave for greener pastures in California, as they sought a motion picture career in the early days of Hollywood. Yet Harold Harvey got real lucky, and landed a contract with Chesterfield Tobacco; as a illustrator/photographer in their ads department.

But I am not truly interested in that portion of Harold Leroy Harvey's life. I am more interested into what got him interested in photo chemistry. I would have enjoyed talking to him, one on one. But that is a mute subject in its self, at this time; since he died 43 years ago. Yet the persons that inspired Harvey towards photo chemistry were Harold D. Russell, Arthur W.M. Dickins, and inventors Charles J. Thatcher of the USA, and Frank Clement Starnes of the UK.

Harold wanted his photos to pop, for he was not getting the results he wanted with the items already on the market. So looking for ways to improve his work, plus working in the heat during the New York City summers, he went seeking some assistance and found some local help from Charles J. Thatcher.

Charles J. Thatcher was well known in and around New York City's (Hollywood) film studios and the Broadway circuit, before most of the old East Coast Studios packed up and moved to California, where they could do filming year round. Thatcher's system of film development was far superior to that of Ansco and Kodak's; in outputting outstanding developed movie film. But like it is in any business, money talks and B.S. walks. And with Ansco and Kodak being willing to invest large sums of money  into many of the up and coming film studios, they got the go ahead O.K., in the front rooms and the darkrooms of many of the film studios. Because in the early 1900's, the major users of 35 mm film and the chemicals used to develop them, were the film studios. Most amateurs photographers, were using 616 roll film or 620/120 roll film in 6 x 6 or 6 x 9,  and sheet film. Harold wanted to use the new 35 mm cameras that were then on the market, because he could take more photos with it. 22 or 24 shots, than the normal 12, or 9 photo shots.

According to history, Harvey stated that it took him 8 to 10 months to design his formula for 777 and two years of testing. Harold Harvey had various other friends and associates, that assisted him in his development of the now well known 777 developers. In fact, when Harvey sold his 777 formula to Defender, he continued to create similar formulas for film development, that he shared with friends and fellow professionals. And thou they were not called 777, these developers were very similar in their function.

Harvey would buy back the rights to use the 777 trademark from DuPont in the early 1950's. DuPont sold the rights because they did not truly push the sell of DuPont 777. And the sells of 777, were very low, compared to some of DuPont's other photo products. For nearly 12 years, DuPont had lost money on Defender/DuPont 777. This came about because, Photograph Studios would purchase only a few cases of 777, and would not buy another supply for two or three years. When their business and sells were good, studios would stock up on 777, in the form of several cases. Which would serve them for years. Even DuPont's sells to hobbyist that used 777, were also very low. Because it would last for a long time before requiring replacement.

Harold Leroy Harvey, open his new business, "Harvey Photochemicals Inc"., in Newton, New Jersey; in the 1950's. But just like DuPont, sells were slow and low. Why, you might ask. Because it was just that good. It lasted too long, and kept getting better and better, the more it was used. Not something that Kodak or Ansco wanted for their products. So, the turn around on Harvey 777, was a very slow one.

Harold L. Harvey past away January 1971. His estate went up for sale the following year.

In my search on the life of Harold L. Harvey, I have discovered many aspics of his character. But it was and is all second hand information. Many of Harold's friends (like himself) are dead, or too old to remember much of the information that I am looking for. Even my trip to Newton, New Jersey produced little,  since most the people that worked for him are also dead or have moved away. I even talked to old timers that remembered Harold and his dear photographer friend "Weegee", of the Naked City fame.

Harvey would go on to develop many different film developing formulas, those before and those after he sold his 777 formula to Defender. And they are all out there, with as many different titles and names as one could imagine. I have four of those formulas, of which three are on my blog. The problem is that Harold (during his time in New York City) would stop at one of his favorite "hot dog" or eating spots in New York, and would write down one of his formulas on any form of paper. And hand it over to a friend or associate. And that would be the end of that.

The posted Fourth formula that I obtained as being one of Harvey's..., this one does not follow the same lines as those posted earlier. I tested this formula and the results were surprisingly very good. I have seen many formulas of this type. But I am posting it for anyone who desires to give it a try.

As I stated before, I recommend that you have some skills in the art of photographic chemistry, before you attempt to make and use this formula. And also, that you fully understand the use and handling of chemicals and film developers. And that you employ all chemical handling and safety rules.

I post no development times per say, and all responsibilities rest with the user. You must be 18 years or older to use these formulas and you accept all liabilities.

Part A
Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
750
ml
4-Aminophenol HCI
2.5
g
Sodium Sulfite (dessic)
100.0
g
Hydroquinone
4.0
g
Sodium Metaborate
          4.0
g

         






       


Part B
Chemical
Amount
Units
Water (125°F/52°C)
250.0
ml
Potassium Carbonate 
7.0
g







          


         








This will make one liter of working solution. You can use it over and over again, without dilution. This formula is for immediate use. You can mix this formula up dry and store it using containers that you fill to the brim, if you want to store the powders mixed together in two parts. To make a gallon of the solution, times 4 all materials. Do not increase the 4-Aminophenol Base, pass 2.5 grams per liter, it will be a waste of a good agent.

You can mix this up at home to make approx. a 1.2 gallon solution, yet you must make it up at a liter at a time. Place the dry chemicals in a large container, add the water using a tightly closed lid, and shake it for a half minute. Pour that into another container, and mix up the next batch. Once you have made four batches of Part A and Part B , combine the batches to form Part A, 3000 ml batch and Part B, 1 liter batch. When mixing Part A to obtain 3000 ml, use pure hot water and mix Part B to 1 liter, also using pure hot water, then combine the two. Do not use tap water, unless boiled and filtered; and allow it to cool below 80 degrees before use. Use without dilution.

I knew that sooner or later, my posted formulas, would be referred to as "concoctions". They are not concoctions. Panthermic 777, is a registered "trademark", it is not a registered invention; because the method used to make it, had already been patented prior to its development. There was no new or improved method in its development. Only DuPont, would go on to improve the formula, plus its method of manufacture, and discover (unlike Johnsons and Sons) it had reached its final development;  as far as investment is concerned. DuPont would later patent the process, which is the blending of plug-in  additional chemicals, that make Panthermic 777 special.

Remember..., Chlorohydroquinone, nor does Hydroquinone enjoy cold baths. So how much do you use or do not use? Because Panthermic 773 will give you a different look, than Panthermic 779. And they are all still out there. Still chillin and waiting to be found.

You are not going to find Harvey's formulas in publish books or even in archives. You are only going to find them if you go to a yard sale, estate sale, or free style picking. Harvey's notes, writings, and company archives, could now be in someone's barn, abandon warehouse, basement, home, or garage,  and no one really knows what they are, or even if they are of any value. They could just be sitting there, waiting for someone to pick them up.

So, if you are out yard sale/garage sale shopping/hunting, take a minute to look through the loose papers and books that is there. You might just find something.

I would like to thank Donald Cardwell, for his assistance, in providing me with additional
material, to put all the information that I have on file together. I have so much information, that it gets lost, and one only need to have a small reminder of one fact, to complete the work. And Donald gave me that reminder, plus the posted article. And I rushed to my papers, files, notes, and articles, and put this together.








Thank You



KennyE

Thursday, November 6, 2014

The Question: What is Photo Grade Chemicals.

#1 Son, an associate of mind, was told by persons that they would only use chemicals in their formulas that had a higher ranking than "Technical Grade". Which is one of the USA government's standard grades, for chemical grading.

So let us focus on only two of these so called grades. The first one is "Technical Grade",  with the second being "Photo Grade".  Which is not a USA Government chemical grade at all..., but an Industrial Specification Rating.

The first one, we know a great deal about it. It is "Technical Grade": and it is a  US Government standard grade. But "Photo Grade", does not exist. It is not a US Government approved chemical grade, it is an Industrial Specified Standard. In fact, it is a ANSI standard, set up by the American National Standard Institute so that product manufactures can protect their products, their business, and maintain consumers confidence in the products in which they purchase. Will meet or exceed the purpose that they were intended to perform.

All of ANSI Standards, are voluntary in nature. Manufactures do not have to use them, unless that ANSI Standard, has been adopted by the United States Government in governing the manufacture and operation of their product.

ANSI Standards..., are standards that the manufacture of that product must meet or exceed in order to qualify for ANSI approval. Such as the "Good House Keeping Seal".

You will discover, that the "Photo Grade" rating, could have a chemical purity range from 77 to 98%; with the lowest purity bulk chemicals being sold only to companies, and not to the general public.

 Listed below is the definition for Photo Grade.


Photo Grade:

Photo Grade chemical is one that contains only the impurities that do not interfere with the intended use of the chemical in the photographic processing.


Most products made in the USA, often exceeds ANSI Standards, and on average..., they run from poor to excellent.

One of the highest chemical grades that the general public can obtain,  is a Food Graded chemical. They run normally 97 to 99% in purity; if they are slated for human consumption. Yet the word "consumption" is very tricky in its use, because it is used even for products that are not slated for consumption internally. Basically just having physical contact with human skin is good enough. Such as products like hair dye, body oils, and such.

I use a 60/40 purity mix of chemical graded chemicals in my formulas. I use swimming pool chemicals, which are 100% Food Graded products that are used in the upkeep of ones swimming pool. I use chemicals used in the making of wine and beer products, or home canning. I use baking soda, which I cook into sodium carbonate. The rest of my chemicals are Technical Grade.

Most chemicals that you will likely come across will be  Food Graded chemicals. Which is one of the highest US grading. It is even higher than Lab Grade chemicals. Many companies purchase thousands of pounds of bulk Food Graded chemicals, and then later..., sell off their left over supplies to reclaim revenue shares. You will discover that many of the chemicals that you come in contact with are food or technical grade chemicals. Which far exceeds the "photo grade" labeling or ANSI standard.

You, the photographer, will be very hard press to obtain chemicals who's purity level is less than 89%. Which by the way..., is very good for any photo chemical work. Your biggest problem with photo chemical work, will be the purity of your water.  In hope of it having fewer metals solids, ceramic metals and glass.

Most US manufactures, perform additional filtering of all their bulk chemicals in order to reach the level of purity required for their finish product that they are producing. You will not be able to purchase many chemicals with a purity level less than 89% in bulk form, without a government license, because of DEA rules and laws . Any chemical sold to the general public (persons without license or permits) must be 100 pound loads or less, and filtered to a purity level of at lease 89% or greater.

Example: If you need to feed your three lot area lawn, and you require 800 pounds of Scott lawn feed. You must buy 16, 50 lbs bags, because 800 pounds of bulk lawn feed can not be sold to the general public, it is a special order and requires permits, or may not be available unless you are a farmer with permits. Also, such large orders of that nature, will draw the attention of the DEA and ATF. Cement is also an item that you must buy in 100 lbs bags or less. Bulk cement is a special order and you must have a permit and show a means of storing such large bulk of cement.

If you obtain a chemical that is less than 89% pure. It was or is being sold illegally to the general public and you should pass on that purchase, unless you have a permit/license, plus a means of filtering the chemical to a higher purity level. Because those chemicals will contain a high metal content and other impurities.

The CDC and the FDA has set levels, standards, and laws to protect the general public, and our water and food supplies from accidental or intentional dumping of chemicals into our environment.  By limiting the size amounts of chemicals being sold to the general public..., to smaller percentages. This action enables them to monitor the illegal chemical dumping performed by companies and private persons, that fail to properly dispose of their chemical products.

So do a little research, and hone up on your chemicals purity studies. Your understanding of it will make you feel much more safe and informed.

Thank U


KennyE